In the realm of the oenophile, there exist moments when the essence of the grape transcends the mere act of tasting, becoming an ethereal experience that intertwines with culture, art, and the sensory tapestry of life itself. Such was the nature of my sojourn into the heart of Valpolicella, where viniculture is less an industry and more a form of high art, steeped in history and tradition as rich and complex as the Amarones they so lovingly produce.
After a night at the enchanting Agriturismo San Mattia, an establishment that offered us the rustic comfort of the Italian countryside with the silhouette of Verona on the horizon, we awoke to a crisp morning, shrouded in the kind of mist that seemed borrowed from a Leopardi poem. The fog seemed to weave its way through the rolling hills, caressing the vineyards as if to awaken the vines with a lover’s touch.
A chorus of birdsong accompanied our departure, as we made our way to the legendary estate of Giuseppe Quintarelli, the man who is often whispered about with the same reverence reserved for a Botticelli painting or a Puccini aria. In the world of wine, Quintarelli is not just a name but a standard against which all others are measured, much like Verdi is in opera.
At Quintarelli, the reverence for tradition is palpable, with techniques passed down through generations being the foundation upon which they create wines of extraordinary complexity and longevity. The estate itself felt like stepping back in time, with each stone and beam seemingly imbued with the spirits of vintages past.
Sampling Quintarelli’s famed Amarone felt akin to reading a verse of Petrarch—each word, each nuance, building upon the last to create an experience of profound beauty and contemplation. The wine itself, with its layers of flavor, spoke of the land and of the mastery required to coax such artistry from the vine.
But Quintarelli is not just Amarone. Their Valpolicella Classico Superiore is a tapestry of the local varietals, Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella, among others, woven together to create something that defies expectation. With the ‘Ripasso’ method, they imbue this wine with a character that speaks to the soul, a liquid sonnet that whispers of the labor, the love, and the land.
Just down the winding road, we met Giuseppe Bussalo of Bussola Tommasi, a winery whose roots are as deep and intricate as the literary history of Italy itself. Tommasi speaks to the land with a bard’s tongue, creating wines that are not merely drunk but experienced, as if each sip were a stanza from an ancient epic. The winery, a haven for both tradition and innovation, creates a symphony of flavors, where each bottle of wine feels like a concerto played in perfect harmony with the surroundings.
Tasting their range, from the youthful vibrancy of the Valpolicella Classico, through the revered complexity of the Ripasso, to the profound depth of their Amarone, is akin to a pilgrimage through the annals of poetry. Each variety resonates with a different emotion, much like the verses of Dante in his “Divine Comedy,” offering a journey from the earthly to the divine.
Bussola’s Amarone, in particular, with its powerful yet elegant structure, reminded me of a bold line from Tasso, rich in texture and resonating with the weight of history. The wine, made from grapes left to wither, concentrated by time to produce something that feels as though it has captured the very essence of the sun-drenched soil, is a testament to the patience and skill of the vintner. It embodies the paradox of time, where waiting – an act of stillness – creates something that dances with life on the palate.
Our visit would not be complete without indulging in the history of the family and their winemaking philosophy. Bussola Tommasi, which had its humble beginnings in the early 20th century, has risen to prominence by clinging to the heartfelt belief that wine is the ultimate expression of the land, the climate, and the people who nurture it. Their wines are like liquid narratives, each bottle telling a story of a year in Valpolicella, a story of their family’s commitment and passion.
As a special coda to our visit with Giuseppe, his brother Paolo and then their father Tommasi himself wandered into the winery for a visit with our little band of vagabonds. It was a perfect finish to our lovely visit.
Our day continued to unfold like a well-crafted novel, each chapter more intoxicating than the last, leading us to a crescendo of culinary delight at Ristorante Caprini in Torbe. Here, we indulged in a traditional Italian dinner, where each course was a stanza in a poem of flavors, perfectly paired with the wines we had come to celebrate.
As we dined, we couldn’t help but draw parallels between the dishes before us and the wines we had tasted. The fusion of flavors on our plates was a harmonious blend, much like the orchestral arrangements of a Rossini opera, each ingredient singing in perfect harmony with the others, elevated by the presence of the wine.
And in the soft glow of the evening, with the chatter of friends old and new mingling with the clinking of glasses, we found ourselves reflecting on the day’s experiences. Each winery had presented us with a different narrative, a different perspective on the art of winemaking. Bussola Tommasi, with its blend of tradition and modernity, spoke of a relentless pursuit of perfection, while Quintarelli represented an almost spiritual devotion to the time-honored practices of the past.
Valpolicella, with its rolling hills, ancient vines, and family legacies, had opened up its heart to us, offering not just its wine but its history, its art, and its soul. It had been a day of sensory storytelling, where each taste was a word, each aroma a sentence, and each glass a chapter in the greater story of this enchanting region.
As the night drew to a close and the stars emerged to perform their silent ballet in the heavens above, I found my thoughts turning to the poetry of Keats, and how he spoke of being “half in love with easeful Death.” In Valpolicella, one might say we were half in love with the easeful life, a life where beauty, in all its forms, is not just appreciated but is the very essence of existence.
In the final analysis, wine, like art, literature, and music, is a testament to the creativity and passion of humanity. It is a cultural expression that connects us to the land, to history, and to each other. And as we bid farewell to this beautiful corner of Italy, We carry with us the knowledge that the true spirit of Valpolicella is not solely contained in the bottles we cherish but in the memories we have created, a paean to the enduring joy of life’s grand symphony.