The application of scientific analysis (including DNA testing) to the world’s wine culture has answered many questions about the true origin and history of varies vitis vinifera varietals used in modern winemaking. However, no amount of scientific data will ever fully replace or eliminate the role of romantic myth in explaining the origin of wines.
For example, one of the most popular grape varietals in the world is Syrah (known in Australia as Shiraz). It’s great as a single varietal and is also the key component in several blends from the Rhone Valley region in France and several other Old World and New World wine regions. While DNA testing shows that Syrah is a hybrid of two rather obscure grapes native to Southeastern France, the legendary origin is much more appealing (and explains the name much better).
Both major versions of the myth (one has the Phoenicians bringing cuttings by sea to their colony in Marseilles and the other actually names a French Crusader – Gaspard de Sterimberg – who supposedly discovered the wine on his travels and brought cuttings back to his estate in the Rhone Valley) identify the grape as originating near the Persian city of Shiraz (in modern day Iran).
Shiraz historically was known as the city of poets, literature, and wine . . . at least until the rise of Islam ended the production of wine. It’s true that a very important early wine was produced in the region beginning as long as 5,000 years ago, but that wine (an often sweet white wine) bore little resemblance to modern Syrah.
This blog entry, however, really isn’t about Syrah, but about another treasure of the modern wine world which originated in Shiraz, Iran. As a young boy, Darioush Khaledi would sneak an occasional taste from his father’s (an amateur wine maker) barrels. However, in the late 1970’s the Islamic Revolution ended all wine production in Iran and forced Khaledi (along with thousands of others) to evacuate the country.
A civil engineer in the construction industry in Iran, Khaledi emigrated to Los Angeles where he found that to practice his trade in the United States he would need to repeat most of his schooling. Seeking another opportunity, he and his brother-in-law partnered in the purchase of a down and out grocery store in a declining area of L.A. and began serving a multi-ethnic, low income neighborhood with honesty, fairness, and an incredible work ethic. Over the next ten years, that single store became a veritable grocery empire and Darioush Khaledi was able to return to his love of good wine, first through collecting and then through the achievement of a long developing dream . . . his own winery.
And when a wealthy, resourceful, committed individual sets out to build a world-class winery in the architectural style of his cultural homeland while producing incredibly sophisticated and high quality wines, the results can be amazing.
Earlier this year, Lisa and I (along with some good friends) had the opportunity to visit the Darioush Winery on the lower Silverado Trail in Napa Valley. Built in the architectural style of a Persian Palace, the winery itself is quite imposing. The tasting room is ultra modern and chic, exactly the opposite of what we prefer. However, the wines are exceptional.
Most importantly, once we were taken “behind the scenes,” the glitz and glamour of the tasting area gave way to a very traditional and well-managed wine operation with extensive vinification and aging capacity. And to top it all off, we were invited into Khaledi Darioush’s private wine library for a tasting pairing some of the winery’s best wines with cheeses from the area. Surrounded by a couple thousand bottles of some of the world’s finest wines, the Darioush offering tasted well.
Their premier wine is labeled Darius II, a complex and artistic blend in the Bordeaux style. It is of exceptional quality year after year, only comprising 20-25 barrels each year. For each vintage, the Darius II label is a reproduction of a particular work of Persian art. For example, the 2010 label is a beautiful representation of a wood carving adorning the ceiling of a wealthy 6th century merchant and adherent of Zoroastrianism.
A boutique wine, Darius II has a boutique price tag (the 2010 vintage was released this year at $225 per bottle), but if you really love great wines, it may be worth it.
However, don’t let the price of Darius II scare you. Darioush Winery also produces an excellent Signature Cabernet Sauvignon, a Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz blend labeled “Duel,” and a very good Chardonnay, all at much more reasonable prices.
Give them a try next time you’re in Napa. Khaledi Darioush’s story of personal success in the face of great challenges is almost as good as his wine!