Bottle Musings

Prologue: The Sun Rises over Alta Langa

As dawn painted the sky in hues of rose and gold, we awoke in the embrace of Villa Alta Langa. The promise of a day in Barolo, a realm synonymous with sublime wines and rolling vineyards, lay ahead. The air was thick with anticipation, and the echoes of dreams from the night lingered as we embarked on a journey through the storied landscapes of Langhe.

Act I: G.D. Vajra – Where Elegance Meets Expression

Arriving at G.D. Vajra, the winery’s name echoed like a lyrical sonnet, resonating with a history woven into the very fabric of Barolo. Our guide for the day, Natascia, embodied the charm and hospitality for which this region is renowned. She led us through the labyrinth of barrels, vines, and the heart of the winemaking process with an infectious enthusiasm that only intensified with each step.

Aldo and Milena Vaira, the custodians of this vinous haven, welcomed us with a warmth that transcended the traditional roles of host and guest. The vineyards, meticulously cared for and caressed by the Piedmontese sun, seemed to whisper secrets to those willing to listen.

Intermezzo: Natascia’s Ode to Beauty

Natascia’s voice, both passionate and melodic, echoed through the caverns of barrels as she spoke of beauty in all its forms. In times that tested the human spirit, she articulated a sentiment that resonated deeply—a belief in the transformative power of art, poetry, music, literature, and wine. In the cellars of G.D. Vajra, these weren’t just commodities; they were vessels of solace, conduits to a higher plane of existence.

“Art,” she declared, “is the soul’s rebellion against the harshness of reality.” In poetry, she found verses that could mend the wounds of the world. Music, she proclaimed, was the universal language that transcended borders and healed divides. Literature, in her eyes, was a refuge, a place where the weary could find solace. And wine, oh, wine was the elixir that united them all—a nectar that elevated the human experience.

Act II: Tasting Elegance in Every Sip

The tasting room at G.D. Vajra unfolded like a gallery of sensory delights. Glasses clinked like brushes on a palette as we delved into the repertoire of their wines. The Barolo, a symphony of Nebbiolo, danced on the palate with notes of red berries and delicate floral undertones. The Langhe Nebbiolo showcased the variety’s versatility, offering a youthful exuberance with a promise of aging gracefully.

As Natascia guided us through each pour, her words were not just descriptors; they were verses in a wine-infused epic. The wines, like well-composed symphonies, unfolded in movements, revealing layers of complexity and grace.

Epilogue: A Tapestry Woven in Barolo

As the day in Barolo drew to a close, the sun dipped below the hills, casting a warm glow over the vines. Aldo and Milena bid us farewell, their smiles etched with the satisfaction of sharing their labor of love. Natascia’s parting words lingered in the air like a benediction—a reminder that in the communion of art, poetry, music, literature, and wine, we find not just pleasure but a balm for the soul.

In the golden twilight, we reflected on the day—an odyssey of the senses, a symposium of the soul. G.D. Vajra had not merely poured wines; they had shared a narrative, a glimpse into the essence of Barolo and the enduring spirit of the Langhe. Each bottle was a brushstroke in the ever-evolving canvas of this enological masterpiece.

As we left the vineyards behind, the echo of Natascia’s words lingered—the idea that in embracing beauty, in all its myriad forms, we find not just an escape but a source of strength. Barolo, with its wines and the embrace of G.D. Vajra, had become a testament to the resilience of the human spirit, a celebration of the profound beauty that could be found even in the midst of adversity.

Our epicurean ensemble, spirits high and palates primed, we bade farewell to the romantic realms of Valpolicella, a veritable garden where Bacchus himself would have reveled in ruby red rapture. Our compass pivoted east, and the lure of Piedmont’s liquid treasures steered us through the undulating embrace of Northern Italy’s winelands.

Descending from the autostrade at Asti, we entered Barbera’s dominion, the vineyards unfurling like green and gold scrolls penned by the gods of the vine. Our destination was the idyllic Villa Alta Langa in Cravanzana, a name that rolls off the tongue as smoothly as the wines it promised.

The Welcome: A Warm Embrace by Villa Alta Langa

Our arrival at Villa Alta Langa was an affair of familial warmth. Hugo and Pietra, custodians of this rural repose, greeted us not as guests but as kin returned from afar. A lunch of Piedmontese splendor awaited, where simple ingredients spoke of the land’s fecundity, each flavor a narrative of nurture.

The Truffle’s Allure

The highlight of the evening was a feast under the firmament, a starlit symphony of tastes and tales. Truffles, Piedmont’s black diamonds, freshly harvested by a neighbor of our hosts, were shaved with a ceremonial reverence over dishes that would haunt our memories forever. The farmer who generously provided the coveted fresh truffles, a man whose very hands told of toil and terroir, joined us, bridging the gap between earth and table with his prized fungi.

The Wines: Ambassadors of Piedmont

The wines, ah, the wines. As the evening progressed, we poured the essence of Piedmont into our glasses. The Barolo, with its garnet glow, brought forth a historical tapestry, each sip a thread connecting past and present. The Dolcetto, a touch more demure, whispered of fog-laden mornings and the sweet ache of anticipation.

The conversation, lubricated by these vinous voices, danced across subjects as diverse as the wines themselves. From the nebbiolo’s nuanced tales to the Dolcetto’s jovial jests, we traversed the spectrum of Piedmont’s enological expressions.

As the night waned, we plotted our forthcoming days. Piedmont promised more than just gustatory delights; it was a living museum of viticulture, each winery a gallery, each vintage a masterpiece waiting to be discovered.

We would wander through cellars where the patina of age hung as thick as the aroma of oak, visit estates where innovation walked hand-in-hand with tradition, and perhaps most enchantingly, meet the vintners—the true artists of the soil.

Conclusion: Piedmont’s Ode to Joy

Our initial foray into Piedmont’s vinous verse was merely the prelude to what we knew would be an odyssey of senses. We looked forward to days filled with the discovery of the deeper secrets of these incredible varietals.

We retired to our rooms, heads spinning not from the wine but from the intoxicating prospect of the days ahead. In Piedmont, every hillside seemed to hold a secret, every vine a story, and every glass poured promised a journey not just across palates but through time and tradition.

As I closed my eyes, it was with the knowledge that we were not merely traveling through Piedmont—we were immersing ourselves in a region where the wine is the ink with which its story is written, an epic still unfolding with each vintage, every glass, a new chapter in Italy’s enduring love affair with the vine.

In the realm of the oenophile, there exist moments when the essence of the grape transcends the mere act of tasting, becoming an ethereal experience that intertwines with culture, art, and the sensory tapestry of life itself. Such was the nature of my sojourn into the heart of Valpolicella, where viniculture is less an industry and more a form of high art, steeped in history and tradition as rich and complex as the Amarones they so lovingly produce.

After a night at the enchanting Agriturismo San Mattia, an establishment that offered us the rustic comfort of the Italian countryside with the silhouette of Verona on the horizon, we awoke to a crisp morning, shrouded in the kind of mist that seemed borrowed from a Leopardi poem. The fog seemed to weave its way through the rolling hills, caressing the vineyards as if to awaken the vines with a lover’s touch.

A chorus of birdsong accompanied our departure, as we made our way to the legendary estate of Giuseppe Quintarelli, the man who is often whispered about with the same reverence reserved for a Botticelli painting or a Puccini aria. In the world of wine, Quintarelli is not just a name but a standard against which all others are measured, much like Verdi is in opera.

At Quintarelli, the reverence for tradition is palpable, with techniques passed down through generations being the foundation upon which they create wines of extraordinary complexity and longevity. The estate itself felt like stepping back in time, with each stone and beam seemingly imbued with the spirits of vintages past.

Sampling Quintarelli’s famed Amarone felt akin to reading a verse of Petrarch—each word, each nuance, building upon the last to create an experience of profound beauty and contemplation. The wine itself, with its layers of flavor, spoke of the land and of the mastery required to coax such artistry from the vine.

But Quintarelli is not just Amarone. Their Valpolicella Classico Superiore is a tapestry of the local varietals, Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella, among others, woven together to create something that defies expectation. With the ‘Ripasso’ method, they imbue this wine with a character that speaks to the soul, a liquid sonnet that whispers of the labor, the love, and the land.

Just down the winding road, we met Giuseppe Bussalo of Bussola Tommasi, a winery whose roots are as deep and intricate as the literary history of Italy itself. Tommasi speaks to the land with a bard’s tongue, creating wines that are not merely drunk but experienced, as if each sip were a stanza from an ancient epic. The winery, a haven for both tradition and innovation, creates a symphony of flavors, where each bottle of wine feels like a concerto played in perfect harmony with the surroundings.

Tasting their range, from the youthful vibrancy of the Valpolicella Classico, through the revered complexity of the Ripasso, to the profound depth of their Amarone, is akin to a pilgrimage through the annals of poetry. Each variety resonates with a different emotion, much like the verses of Dante in his “Divine Comedy,” offering a journey from the earthly to the divine.

Bussola’s Amarone, in particular, with its powerful yet elegant structure, reminded me of a bold line from Tasso, rich in texture and resonating with the weight of history. The wine, made from grapes left to wither, concentrated by time to produce something that feels as though it has captured the very essence of the sun-drenched soil, is a testament to the patience and skill of the vintner. It embodies the paradox of time, where waiting – an act of stillness – creates something that dances with life on the palate.

Our visit would not be complete without indulging in the history of the family and their winemaking philosophy. Bussola Tommasi, which had its humble beginnings in the early 20th century, has risen to prominence by clinging to the heartfelt belief that wine is the ultimate expression of the land, the climate, and the people who nurture it. Their wines are like liquid narratives, each bottle telling a story of a year in Valpolicella, a story of their family’s commitment and passion.

As a special coda to our visit with Giuseppe, his brother Paolo and then their father Tommasi himself wandered into the winery for a visit with our little band of vagabonds. It was a perfect finish to our lovely visit.

Our day continued to unfold like a well-crafted novel, each chapter more intoxicating than the last, leading us to a crescendo of culinary delight at Ristorante Caprini in Torbe. Here, we indulged in a traditional Italian dinner, where each course was a stanza in a poem of flavors, perfectly paired with the wines we had come to celebrate.

As we dined, we couldn’t help but draw parallels between the dishes before us and the wines we had tasted. The fusion of flavors on our plates was a harmonious blend, much like the orchestral arrangements of a Rossini opera, each ingredient singing in perfect harmony with the others, elevated by the presence of the wine.

And in the soft glow of the evening, with the chatter of friends old and new mingling with the clinking of glasses, we found ourselves reflecting on the day’s experiences. Each winery had presented us with a different narrative, a different perspective on the art of winemaking. Bussola Tommasi, with its blend of tradition and modernity, spoke of a relentless pursuit of perfection, while Quintarelli represented an almost spiritual devotion to the time-honored practices of the past.

Valpolicella, with its rolling hills, ancient vines, and family legacies, had opened up its heart to us, offering not just its wine but its history, its art, and its soul. It had been a day of sensory storytelling, where each taste was a word, each aroma a sentence, and each glass a chapter in the greater story of this enchanting region.

As the night drew to a close and the stars emerged to perform their silent ballet in the heavens above, I found my thoughts turning to the poetry of Keats, and how he spoke of being “half in love with easeful Death.” In Valpolicella, one might say we were half in love with the easeful life, a life where beauty, in all its forms, is not just appreciated but is the very essence of existence.

In the final analysis, wine, like art, literature, and music, is a testament to the creativity and passion of humanity. It is a cultural expression that connects us to the land, to history, and to each other. And as we bid farewell to this beautiful corner of Italy, We carry with us the knowledge that the true spirit of Valpolicella is not solely contained in the bottles we cherish but in the memories we have created, a paean to the enduring joy of life’s grand symphony.

As the autumn leaves begin to paint the landscapes with a palette of auburn and gold, I find myself embarking on a journey—a pilgrimage of the senses, if you will, through the rolling vineyards of Italy. My adventure begins in the storied region of Valpolicella, a place where the vines whisper tales of tradition, passion, and the purest form of artistry that only nature and human hands in harmony can create. This is not just a trip; it’s a narrative that weaves the robust threads of viticulture, the timeless beauty of poetry, and the melodic strains of American pop music into a tapestry that one can taste, hear, and feel.

And what makes it even more special is that I get to create this tapestry in the company of some incredible friends. In telling of these forthcoming escapades and visions, I cannot forgo mentioning the companions who will render this trip truly extraordinary. Friends, who have become discerning in their tastes, each with their own palate and viewpoint, will add a richness to the experience as varied and layered as the wines we will savor. We share a kinship, one that will be deepened by each new bottle discovered, each new vista embraced. In our communion, we will find joy, mirroring the sentiment found in the Beatles’ lyrics: “I get by with a little help from my friends.”

I find myself musing on Shakespeare’s words that will echo through our impending journey: “Good company, good wine, good welcome, can make good people.” It is with this sentiment in my heart that I, along with a few cherished friends, will embark on a poetic adventure through the vine-veined heart of Italy’s renowned wine regions. Our narrative will begin at Corte San Mattia, an enchanting agriturismo nestled high upon a hill that overlooks Verona, the timeless city of Romeo and Juliet—a setting where love and legend are the very air we breathe.

Nestled amidst olive groves and vineyards, Corte San Mattia offers a rustic embrace, setting the stage for the weeks to come. The quaint agriturismo is more than a resting place; it is a character in our story, framing our early mornings with misty views and our evenings with glasses of local Amarone and Ripasso, toasting to the days ahead.

Valpolicella: The Prelude

Valpolicella, our first act, welcomes us with open arms. Here, the soil and sun perform an ancient alchemy to transform humble grapes into the region’s liquid treasures. Amarone della Valpolicella, a robust red that unfolds on the palate with a complexity that could inspire sonnets, will be our muse as we explore the valleys and hills. Each glass seems to beckon with a new verse, a new secret to tell.

As we move from one winery to another, I am reminded of the words of Stevenson, “Wine is bottled poetry.” In Valpolicella, the verses are heady and rich, speaking of the care and passion imbued by generations of winemakers. Our tastings are leisurely affairs, where we let the wine linger on our tongues as the vintners share their stories—a blend of history, personal anecdotes, and a deep love for their craft.

Verona: The Muse

In these early days of the odyssey, from Corte San Mattia, each day will commence with Verona offering a romantic backdrop to our adventures. The city, steeped in history and architectural splendor, will watch over us, a silent custodian of our memories and experiences. Here, in the shadow of Juliet’s balcony, the blend of literature, wine, and friendship will find its most harmonious chord.

Evenings will be spent recounting the day’s tales over bottles of Valpolicella Ripasso, conversation flowing as freely as the wine. The agriturismo, with its quiet elegance and panoramic views, will become a sanctuary, a place where laughter and tales resonate against ancient stones.

Musings and Melodies

Often, we will pause to contemplate the parallels between the wines we taste and the melodies that have marked our lives. From the lively pop anthems about love and loss to the gentle ballads that speak of hope and memory, our dialogues will often return to how these songs parallel the narratives told by the wines we cherish.

Thus, the journey will be more than a simple passage through vineyards; it will be a contemplative quest into the allure of existence. With each destination, from Valpolicella’s sun-soaked valleys to Tuscany’s historical depth, new flavors, new revelations, and new inspirations will be discovered.

The Roads Ahead

As we set out, I will document each step, seeking to capture the essence of our experiences—the taste, the scent, the laughter, the ambiance, the whispering of vines in the breeze, the clinking of glasses, the murmur of conversation. This journey will be a celebration of the senses, of camaraderie, and of the simple, yet profound pleasure of a good bottle of wine shared among friends.

Follow us as we sip our way through Italy, from the robust reds of Valpolicella to the complex vintages of Tuscany. Join us in spirit as we live out the truth that life, like a fine wine, is best savored when shared.

In vino veritas—within wine, there is truth, but also life, laughter, and the enduring bonds of friendship. We will raise our glasses to the horizons ahead, to Italy’s embrace, and to the stories we will gather and treasure for years to come. Salute!

Winter hasn’t quite loosed his steely grip on the Chesapeake Bay area.  Although this evening ended in a brilliant sunset with clear skies levelling golden rays through the still leafless trees in our back forest, it began with a cold, damp drizzle.  But that was okay because Lisa pulled out some leftover cassoulet from the freezer and we opened a bottle of Biale Ranch Pagani Vineyard Zinfandel.  Add a fire in the fireplace and you have all the ingredients to insure a warm heart.

Lisa’s cassoulet is a traditional recipe she picked up in France several years ago . . . a traditional farm casserole of rustic beans and sausage which she usually tops with seared duck breast.  And the Biale Zinfandel is a palate pleasing, heart warming mouthful.  All that together screams of home and hearth!

Pagani Ranch is in Sonoma Valley and managed by the fourth generation descendants of Felice Pagani who bought the plot in the 1880’s.  Some of the vines producing today’s Zinfandel are over 100 years old which explains the rich, almost chewy juice.  Incredibly drinkable wine with a meaningful, complex mouthfeel that makes you wonder what tales those 100 year old vines could tell.  In fact, they do tell . . . through this wine.

Early in the modern wine era, Zinfandel was touted as “the quintessential American varietal.”  Only it’s not American.  Genetically, its source has been traced to Croatia and it’s the same as the Primitivo varietal from Italy.  There’s evidence of the grape in the Caucasus in 6000 BC and it finally made it to the United States in the mid 19^th Century.

With all due respect to its origins, though, I have to admit that the varietal has found its spiritual home in the gravelly clay loam of Sonoma Valley where the vines have to send roots deep to find water, and where the cool foggy mornings give way to sunshine basted afternoons.  The Italian varietal name, Primitivo, refers to the early maturation of the grapes and the rich sugar content insures high alcohol post-fermentation.  The berry size is small and the yield of the old vines very low, insuring super high quality juice.

But does any of that matter?  Not really, unless you’re a wine geek like me.  What matters is that when you open a bottle of this incredible elixir you are sharing in the glory of one Felice Pagani who had a vision . . . a vision that his great-great grandchildren are realizing yet today.  And a hundred years of history, tradition, love, and cultivation captured in a bottle.

As I drink the last glass from the bottle, the cassoulet is all gone.  The fire lingers in the fireplace.  I just listened to an incredible a capella rendition of “Landslide” with six or eight rich layers of harmony woven into an amazing tapestry of sound and six or eight rich levels of flavor layering one over the other.

And with this wine . . . this dinner . . . this hearth . . . this home I can answer those questions.  Can the child within my heart rise above?  Can I sail through the changin’ ocean tides?  Can I handle the seasons of my life?  Why yes, I think I can.

Okay, I’ll admit it.  I don’t always make the best decisions regarding wine purchases.  I taste a lot of different wines from a lot of different wineries from all over the world, and I have rarely ever met a wine I didn’t like.  Couple that with the idea that if I taste at a winery, it’s really hard for me to tell them that their baby is ugly.  Especially when NO baby is really ugly . . . only perhaps slightly less beautiful than someone else’s baby.  So I typically buy at least a bottle from almost every winery I visit.

As a result, I frequently find in my collection wines that were purchased in just those circumstances . . . wines that I have passed over as I go into my makeshift “cellar” to select a wine for Lisa and I to drink with dinner or with friends.  Occasionally I pass those wines off to our kids when they are looking for something from “Dad’s Wines,” and occasionally I’ll pull one out for us to enjoy . . . or at least partake of.

This evening is one of those times.  While going from bottle to bottle (Lisa frequently accuses me of “fondling” my wines) looking for a likely suspect to accompany leftover Chicken and Orzo soup and a Roast Chicken Salad, I decided to apply a “use it or lose it” test to a bottle that I’ve regretted buying ever since I got it home.  Hey, worst case scenario I could always pour it out and pull another bottle.  It’s not like I’m low on inventory or anything.  Turns out, I was pleasantly surprised.

Last year we spent a week on the Oregon Coast with two other couples, good friends of ours from our suburban Dallas days.  We enjoyed a beautiful house overlooking the ocean and Oregon’s trademark craggy coastline and spent a few days touring the Oregon wine country, which is just a bit inland in the Willamette Valley.  We tasted (and bought) at several wonderful wineries including Domaine Serene, Domaine Drouhin, Van Duzer, and St. Innocent Wineries (more on each of those in future blog posts).

While Oregon wine culture produces a number of decent varietal examples, Pinot Noir is by far the dominant varietal and it is in Pinot Noir that Oregon wine finds its superior identity.  Pinot Noir is a temperamental and care intensive varietal, but when wine-growers have the patience and skill to coax it into its full maturity it produces incredible wines.

The gold standard for Pinot Noir historically is, of course, the Burgundy region of France.  Although wine has been produced in the region since the Roman times, it was the Benedictine monks of Cluny who introduced Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (Burgundy’s leading white wine varietal) and whose astute observation of variances in quality and character based on vineyard location and terroir who are really responsible for the wine legacy of Burgundy.

In America, Pinot Noir is grown in California’s Central Coast wine region as well as in the more westerly and northerly parts of Napa and Sonoma.  But nowhere in the New World does it shine as it does in Oregon.

On a drive down the coast one day with our friends, we saw a sign announcing “Winery Ahead.”  Of course, that’s an irresistible invitation for me and so after one turn off the main highway and a few hundred yards west to the very edge of the shoreline we found ourselves at Flying Dutchman Winery . . . the western-most winery in the United States.  Of course the winery doesn’t have any vineyards (too close to the coast) and so they source grapes from a few select vineyards in the Willamette Valley a few miles to the east.

We tasted a few wines and found them to be fairly good, so of course I bought a few bottles.  Back home, however, in my racks next to the prizes from Van Duzer, Domaine Drouhin, and the other wineries mentioned above, and next to other wines in my collection from around the world, the Flying Dutchman Pinot Noir wasn’t necessarily an ugly baby . . . just a less beautiful baby.

Imagine my surprise this evening when I opened a bottle to discover a light, delicate, lovely Pinot Noir . . . light ruby in color with a nose exploding with sour cherries and a palate of candied cherries with a little bacon fat mixed in.  Beautiful!

Which brings me to the lesson of the day.  Taste it all!  Be adventurous!  You never know when you’re going to be pleasantly surprised!

It’s no secret that I love France’s Rhone Valley.  From the northern villages where the vineyards are only a couple of acres and are on hillsides so steep they are almost impossible to cultivate,  home to the wonderful Condrieu appellation to the southern Rhone where the Pope (Clement V, the first French Pope elected in 1305) chose to make Avignon the seat of his papacy rather than Rome . . . the papacy remained in France for 67 years . . . and

where the famous Chateauneuf du Pape (literally New Castle of the Pope) is produced from the gravelly, slightly rolling plains on the west side of the river.

The southern Rhone is home to several other lesser known, but equally delicious and sophisticated appellations like Vacqueyras, Lirac, and Gigondas (one of my very favorite villages and wines).  And in all of these southern Rhone appellations, Syrah reigns supreme.  The seductive, silky mouthfeel and deep rich flavors of the Syrah-based wines from this beautiful, slightly wild part of France have sparked an explosion in Syrah production in the New World

(California, Australia, and even South America) as vintners from around the globe work their particular magic on this hardy and prolific varietal.

However, Syrah is only one of the varietals in that region (according to AOC rules in France, Chateauneuf du Pape, for example, can contain up to 18 different varietals in each vintage).  In the United States, an organization styling themselves “The Rhone Rangers” has organized (www.rhonerangers.com) to promote and explain 22 different varietals from the Rhone Valley that are now grown in California, particularly in the Central Coast region.

Most any of the Rhone Ranger wine producers can be trusted labels in the wine store, but tonight (as a Winter Storm Warning is in effect for North Texas) I’m opening a bottle of JC Cellars’ 2008 “Twist of Fate.”

Jeff Cohn (JC) claims it is “A Syrah unlike any other. A wine of pure decadence, an experience of pure terroir. With the lightest touch of a warm spring day after a rain and the sun comes out to dry it all away. Yes it’s that kind of wine… simply  put, this was a twist of fate.”

Famed wine critic Robert Parker gives it a 94 (a very high score) and says, “The 2008 Syrah Twist of Fate reveals smoky,  meaty notes intermixed with black fruit and damp earth characteristics.  The gentle tannins caress the palate and the wine builds incrementally to a full-bodied, whoppingly rich, intense, but not over-the-top or heavy red.  It should provide thrilling drinking over the next 6-8 years.”

Sounds great, doesn’t it?  I’ll let you know! 😉